Thank you for this deep dive. I enjoyed it immensely. I've never worried much about the hump, though I suspect that's down to a recipe that has simply never failed me.
I do still chill the batter for 24 hours, for two reasons.
- Texture and freshness. My recipe is built on whipped egg, so fresh batter is very airy. Baked straight away, it gives a madeleine that dries out fast. Resting does two things: the (little) gluten developed during mixing relaxes and holds air better, and the crumb becomes slightly denser with smaller bubbles. The resulting madeleines stay moist for longer. In the pâtisserie where I used to make them, we baked in the morning to serve as an after-dinner treat some eight to twelve hours later, so this mattered a lot.
- Consistency at volume. Chilled batter is firmer and easier to control while piping equal amounts into every tiny mould. And a freshly whipped batter starts losing volume at some point; by the time you're on your third batch/oven load, the temperature and consistency have shifted and so will your results.
So: your analysis is spot on (I learned so much!) and it's great advice for home bakers. From a pastry chef's perspective there's a strong case for chilling to hold quality steady, which may well be part of why the French insist on it.
love this!!! So insightful, thank you for sharing! I definitely agree making batter in advance is essential for MEP and no real downside to the resting, and really interesting about the shelf life. I did find that the cakes I baked right away were still quite delicious days later, though still I really don't think I loved ANY of them more than when I ate them fresh. I
Until recently, I was in the "only good for ten minutes out of the oven" camp. But after acquiring some new tins and making several batches, I've changed my mind: they're not much cop even then! Hugely overrated. The idea of the perfect madeleine has warped people's minds. The tins went back.
When I lived in Paris, my flat was an easy three minute walk down the mount from an exceptional boutique for patisserie…Gilles Marchal, a native of Lorraine (home to the Madeleine), still showcases a lovely variety of signature Madeleines in his eponymous Montmartre pastry shop…why even the door handle to his patisserie is a carved wooden Madeleine! Have a peek @ www.gillesmarchal.com
I’m heading to France on Wednesday and I’m going to bake a batch for the flight! Kids will love them! I presume you infused the milk and vanilla before adding to the butter? Or after?
hiya! I put 100g of batter into my mini loaf tin and I baked for about 24 minutes I think. I did put in the oven whilst I was doing other tests, mind, so best just to test it by pressing the top to see if it is firm or trying the toothpick test!
The other week I had cornbread madeleines at fortynine restaurant served with a jalapeño butter although I had regular butter with mine - liked them! And then the amazing sticky toffee madeleines at Tom Brown at the Capital - big yes to those!
I think so yes! I enjoyed both these rather more than a traditional Madeleine (although I have made a saffron orange blossom version from Ottolenghi which was rather pleasing and very little faff… must try yours!)
So interesting! I always wondered the reason why madeleine have a hump! I agree that people should show more the shell side as it’s much prettier. I’ll try this recipe for sure :)
I love madeleines and somehow never knew about the madeleine bump! My go-to recipe has always been Nigella's rosebud madeleines, which don't have baking powder. Thanks for the recipe!
À la recherche du hump perdu.
Interesting details pertaining to the madeleine and the hump. Worthwhile.
Thank you for this deep dive. I enjoyed it immensely. I've never worried much about the hump, though I suspect that's down to a recipe that has simply never failed me.
I do still chill the batter for 24 hours, for two reasons.
- Texture and freshness. My recipe is built on whipped egg, so fresh batter is very airy. Baked straight away, it gives a madeleine that dries out fast. Resting does two things: the (little) gluten developed during mixing relaxes and holds air better, and the crumb becomes slightly denser with smaller bubbles. The resulting madeleines stay moist for longer. In the pâtisserie where I used to make them, we baked in the morning to serve as an after-dinner treat some eight to twelve hours later, so this mattered a lot.
- Consistency at volume. Chilled batter is firmer and easier to control while piping equal amounts into every tiny mould. And a freshly whipped batter starts losing volume at some point; by the time you're on your third batch/oven load, the temperature and consistency have shifted and so will your results.
So: your analysis is spot on (I learned so much!) and it's great advice for home bakers. From a pastry chef's perspective there's a strong case for chilling to hold quality steady, which may well be part of why the French insist on it.
love this!!! So insightful, thank you for sharing! I definitely agree making batter in advance is essential for MEP and no real downside to the resting, and really interesting about the shelf life. I did find that the cakes I baked right away were still quite delicious days later, though still I really don't think I loved ANY of them more than when I ate them fresh. I
Until recently, I was in the "only good for ten minutes out of the oven" camp. But after acquiring some new tins and making several batches, I've changed my mind: they're not much cop even then! Hugely overrated. The idea of the perfect madeleine has warped people's minds. The tins went back.
Hahaha I feel you!!! I have to say I really enjoyed the loaf tin version :). But shell shape is undeniably cute!!!
When I lived in Paris, my flat was an easy three minute walk down the mount from an exceptional boutique for patisserie…Gilles Marchal, a native of Lorraine (home to the Madeleine), still showcases a lovely variety of signature Madeleines in his eponymous Montmartre pastry shop…why even the door handle to his patisserie is a carved wooden Madeleine! Have a peek @ www.gillesmarchal.com
Thank you!!!
I’m heading to France on Wednesday and I’m going to bake a batch for the flight! Kids will love them! I presume you infused the milk and vanilla before adding to the butter? Or after?
oh yes! I just put the vanilla into the butter with the milk. Thank you for spotting that!
such in depth explanation and discovery on madelines! thank you for sharing your results and looking forward to your next experiment!!!
For your loaf cake test, did you still fill 85% and how long to bake?
hiya! I put 100g of batter into my mini loaf tin and I baked for about 24 minutes I think. I did put in the oven whilst I was doing other tests, mind, so best just to test it by pressing the top to see if it is firm or trying the toothpick test!
Here are photos!
Madeleines without ground almonds!! So exciting
Yessss!!!
Interesting details pertaining to the madeleine and the hump. Worthwhile.
Mad about madeleines
WE PUT THE MAD IN LEINES
The other week I had cornbread madeleines at fortynine restaurant served with a jalapeño butter although I had regular butter with mine - liked them! And then the amazing sticky toffee madeleines at Tom Brown at the Capital - big yes to those!
So interesting. So are you in the camp of the tin makes the madeleine, not the batter?
I think so yes! I enjoyed both these rather more than a traditional Madeleine (although I have made a saffron orange blossom version from Ottolenghi which was rather pleasing and very little faff… must try yours!)
both sound amazing! sticky toffee madeleines sounds like such a cute addition for Christmas coffee.
So interesting! I always wondered the reason why madeleine have a hump! I agree that people should show more the shell side as it’s much prettier. I’ll try this recipe for sure :)
So I’m entirely on the other team - I think that as long as you make it with madeleine batter, it’s a madeleine, no matter what shape it is 😂
(although I’m still not entirely certain I understand the difference between a madeleine and a financier and maybe that’s partly because of this 😂)
I love madeleines and somehow never knew about the madeleine bump! My go-to recipe has always been Nigella's rosebud madeleines, which don't have baking powder. Thanks for the recipe!