I'm writing this to you from somewhere over the Black Sea on my way back from Hong Kong. Though I've so, so much inspiration to share with you (as well as all the recommendations) and lots of stories to tell from my trip away, this week's newsletter is a little amuse-bouche for a longer deep dive coming next week: EVERYTHING QUINCE!
I'll admit it's taken me three decades to be properly romanced by quince, the yellow fruit that looks somewhere between an apple and a pear. And just like Taylor Swift, it was me, hi, I was the problem, it was me. But this month marks the first proper anniversary of our love story so I’ve decided to celebrate it.
So what was happening before quince and I were betrothed? Even though I'd come across it in various forms, on a cheeseboard in its dark squidgy membrillo outfit or poached gently and laid across a custard bed on a Danish pastry, when it came to quince, I used to be somewhat unconvinced by the effort to pay off ratio.
Not only can the British-grown fruit, or the ones you might find in a tree in local gardens, be so astringent that it borders on inedible when raw (not always the most encouraging), the fruit itself can be challenging to source and hard work to prep. Thanks to this, I had been guilty of overlooking it for the more amiable apple or pear.
And I know I'm not alone… A few weeks ago, I asked Instagram about the split between quince lovers and quince sceptics, and it was 60/40 to the sceptics. Now, just like past me, the sceptics aren't doubting the flavour of the quince. It's just that they haven't been beguiled by it, likely because of the relatively high barrier to entry to becoming besties with the fruit. I'm here to break down that barrier.
Coming soon…
I'll be giving you lots of reasons to go steady with quince next week, from stews to pies to chutney to jam to cake; it's going to be a full-blown QUINDEX (I'm not entirely sure that works yet but, brb will keep workshopping) but until then I wanted to re-share last year's guide to poaching quinces (you'll need some poached quinces for some of next week's recipes and getting them to go bright red takes a bit of time and effort) along with the first of several quince recipes to come: Camilla Wynne's Quince Scrap Jelly.
First up: Poached quinces
Last year, on realising that I was actually a quince lover, I wrote a short introduction to the fruit, documenting the extraordinary transformation from hard, pale, astringent flesh to something bright-red, yielding and perfumed - it’s still my go-to way of cooking the fruit.
And now: Quince Jelly
Scroll down and you’ll find Camilla Wynne’s recipe for quince jelly. Perfect for spooning on cheeseboards, glazing tarts or dolloping onto thick greek yoghurt, this jelly is the perfect companion recipe for the poached quinces. Because it uses only the cores and peels, you can set these aside during the poaching prep process and turn them into something wobbling and gorgeous. The whole fruit will get used to masterful effect!
There's no one I trust more on jams and jellies than Camilla, and unsurprisingly, this quince number joins the ranks of foolproof recipes that take the stress out of preserving. I don't consider myself much of a jam maker, so it's always a joy when I follow one of Camilla's recipes and am rewarded handsomely with jars of perfectly set jam and jelly. Would you look at this colour?
Check it out below.
Lots of love,
Nicola
P.S. Very, very soon I finally get to share the news of something I've been working on for well over a year. I am SO excited to share it with you. I should be sending it out far and wide late next week, but I'll be sending a secret sneak preview to KP+ ahead of time, so please do keep a lookout for it. Can't believe it! Ahhhhhh!!!